Mahikeng - “Lions don’t like lions,” said Dylan Smith, head ranger at Tau Game Lodge.
This was all too palpable as we watched a tense chase-cum-stand-off, one that would probably go on for days and end badly, between a magnificent male keen on some nookie and the youngsters keeping him away from their mum. Things happen quickly in the bush and at Tau (Place of the Lion) you don’t even have to venture from the lodge to witness this.
African-inspired Tau is built along a huge watering hole with open ground, bush and high hills as a backdrop. Sure, lots of lodges have waterholes/dams, but not this close. Each chalet’s private balcony, up and downstairs decks at the main lodge, or poolside loungers, afford close-up views and there is plenty on show. On average 200 elephants come by daily, plus prancing zebra, gambolling wildebeest – the lot. A couple of crocs keep the plentiful birdlife on their toes, though one red-knobbed coot was gone in a blink.
Although it’s lovely watching while sipping a drink or having lunch, it’s way better in Smith’s bush classroom. Those drives were unlike others I’ve been on. Madikwe is dry (and we were there in the middle of a severe drought). There are varied microbiomes to identify wildlife, sightings were plentiful and the guides were careful but persistent in tracking animals. And the animals were, as a result, some of the most chilled I’ve encountered – and some of our encounters were hold-your-breath close. We saw loads, including stars aplenty at night, while cowbells on Botswana cattle farms across the border provided unusual, pleasant background music into the evenings.
Amazingly, Madikwe Game Reserve is one of South Africa’s lesser known parks, though many rangers at other reserves I’ve visited recommended it. This arid hidden gem, about the size of Singapore, is our fourth largest reserve and one of the best conservation areas in Africa. The Tau folk were full of praise for the local government’s efforts, just as we were full of praise for the staff.
I’ve been to fancier lodges, but few run as well as Tau, where the staff are top notch – knowledgeable, helpful and on the ball.
Tau never seemed full. With several large and other, more intimate, public areas dotted around, we hardly noticed the other guests other than at mealtimes and before game drives, where it was quite surprising to be confronted with 60-odd others. Even at dinner in the larger of the two bomas, clever lighting imbued an unexpected and unusually intimate atmosphere.
Mealtimes were a treat. Tau doesn’t go for haute cuisine, thank goodness. This invariably fails dismally in the sticks. The food was, however, very, very good and varied, and we appreciated the endless supply of nuts at the bar and the teatime spread before afternoon game drives.
There’s a well laid out spa with floor to ceiling windows in the treatment rooms and a particularly nice outdoor chill out area. There’s a large conference centre set away from the lodge, where the well-heeled celebrate nuptials.
We were loathe to leave, but a glimpse is always available via the 24/7 webcam on its website.
Call 011 466 8715 or visit www.taugamelodge.co.za
Sunday Tribune