By Joe Yonan
I'm not going to apologize for liking an Impossible or Beyond burger every now and then.
Sometimes I feel like I should, given the criticism they face for being highly processed, not focused on recognizable vegetables, etc. (Cue the self-righteous, "gotcha!" commenters with their tired "Why would vegetarians and vegans want something that reminds them of meat?" questions.)
Instead, I want to focus on how easy they can be to cook and what a boon they can be to plant-based eaters like me who, yes, enjoy the taste and texture of a well-made hamburger but don't want it to be made of animals.
This recipe includes a few smart tricks: using a glass pie plate or dish and parchment paper to press the patties into neat 7.5cm rounds; chilling them first so they are easy to manoeuvre and hold up better; pressing chopped onions onto one side to char as the burger cooks; and adding steam to soften the buns and to help melt the vegan cheese.
Vegan Pub Sliders (Serves 4-8)
For best results, use a block of ground plant-based meat rather than patties. Note that in testing, we preferred these with brioche-style slider buns; sweet Hawaiian-style rolls competed with the slightly sweet/sour sauce. Serve one slider per guest as an appetizer or two as a main.
Ingredients
FOR THE SAUCE
2 tablespoons plant-based mayonnaise
1 tablespoon tomato sauce
1 teaspoon sweet pickle relish
1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon white vinegar
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE SLIDERS
340g plant-based ground meat
1/4 teaspoon fine salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
8 slider hamburger buns
4 slices plant-based cheese
4 teaspoons vegetable oil, divided
1/4 cup finely chopped yellow or white onion, divided
1/4 cup water, divided
Method
Make the sauce
In a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, ketchup, relish, sugar, vinegar and pepper.
Make the sliders
Fold a sheet of parchment paper in half, then unfold it. Using your moistened hands, pinch off and roll the ground meat into 8 balls (42g each).
Put one ball on one side of the parchment paper, fold the other side over, and use a clear pie plate or baking dish to press the ball into an even 7.5cm-wide patty. (Using something made of glass helps you see the size of the patty as you're pressing.)
Transfer to a platter or a baking sheet and repeat with the remaining balls.
Sprinkle the patties with salt and pepper and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes and up to 24 hours.
Divide the sauce evenly among the bun bottoms and arrange them on a serving platter.
Stack the cheese and cut it into quarters (for 16 pieces).
In a large non-stick pan over medium-high heat, heat 2 teaspoons of the oil until just smoking.
Using a spatula, transfer four patties to the skillet.
Sprinkle a total of 2 tablespoons of the onion over the tops of the patties and press firmly into the patties with the back of the spatula.
Cook the patties until well browned on the first side, about 1 minute.
Flip the patties and top each with 2 pieces of cheese and add the bun tops.
Add 2 tablespoons of water to the pan beside the patties (being careful to not wet the buns), cover, and cook until the cheese is melted, 90 seconds.
Transfer the sliders to the prepared bun bottoms, tent with aluminium foil, and set aside while cooking the remaining patties.
Repeat with the remaining 2 teaspoons of oil, 4 patties, 2 tablespoons of onion, bun tops and 2 tablespoons of water. Serve warm.
Adapted from "Cooking With Plant-Based Meat" by America's Test Kitchen (2022).